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Embroidery
As opposed to the printed cloth and patterned
weaving the embroidery doesn’t need special devices. Everything that can be
found at every home - a piece of cloth, threads and needles - is enough. The
meaning of embroidery is not only in its pattern on cloth but in creation of
the texture richness of its surface embroidered with small stitches-patterns.
For this purpose there were a lot of types of stitches with special ways of
their version and pattern structure. Some of them were made on the surface
of the cloth, other needed a preliminary thread of the needle and creation
of a through mesh that was served as a canvas for further embroidery.
Famous Vologda trimming – the sides of bed
sheets decorating the festive bed – are done using this method. This broad -
up to 2 meters long - cloth is embroidered with amazing multi-figured
compositions. In the continuous pattern line there are pictures of fantastic
birds and animals, buildings with columns and balustrades along which ladies
in crinolines and cavaliers in wigs and sleeveless jackets walk following
the fashion of the 18th century. The surface of each figure is filled with
geometrical patterns creating a rich play of the embroidered texture.
Compact silhouette of pictures contrasts to light through background.
The most preserved embroideries are dated
back to 19-20th centuries. But its ornamental pattern is much older than the
things on which it is made. The embroidered subjects played an important
role in folk rituals and preserved the patterns from different time. There
are different types among the patterns of Vologda embroidery: geometrical,
vegetable, pictorial, pictures of animals and birds. The most oldest
patterns are the geometrical patterns and triple compositions with human
figures in the center and horses, riders and birds on the sides. They were
embroidered on the sides of towels, aprons, trimmings and hems of shirts.
Such grand festive embroideries brought to us the echo of pagan mythology of
ancient Slavs. The scientists think that female figures, images of riders
and birds were symbols of Nature and its dependent elements of fire, water
and air. Such embroideries were always made with red threads on linen using
an old 2-sided stitch technology – when the right and left sides are similar.
Its pattern is clear, pictures are geometrized with a line rhythm.
In different parts of Vologda Oblast there
are different types of embroidery. Their peculiarity becomes apparent in the
picture and character of the pattern, technique of embroidery, in the size
and color of the pattern and even in the tints of red threads.
Today textile art of the North is changed
significantly. It is connected not only with new world-view and wealth of
people. The accelerated tempo of life doesn’t leave spare time for laborious
female handicrafts. Nevertheless, textile folk art is surviving. If the most
laborious handicraft – an embroidery - left in the past, many types of
weaving and lace-making obtained new forms of development dictated by the
present. |